3D Printing

3D printing is an additive manufacturing process that builds a physical object one thin layer at a time from a digital 3D model. Rather than carving or molding material, a printer adds or cures material until the full part exists. It effectively turns an on-screen 3D model into a real, tangible object.

You start with a watertight 3D model and export it to a print format like STL or 3MF, then use slicing software to convert it into layer-by-layer instructions called G-code. The printer follows those instructions, depositing or curing material one layer at a time from the bottom up. Once every layer is printed and any support structures are removed, you have a finished physical part.

FDM printers melt and extrude plastic filament, laying it down in lines to build each layer, which makes them affordable and great for functional parts. Resin printers (SLA or DLP) cure liquid photopolymer with light, producing much finer detail and smoother surfaces that suit miniatures and figurines. FDM is generally cheaper and cleaner to run, while resin delivers higher detail at the cost of messier handling.

STL is the long-standing 3D printing standard, but it stores only raw triangle geometry with no color, units, or material information. 3MF is a newer format that packs geometry along with color, materials, and print settings into a single file, reducing ambiguity. Most modern slicers support both, and 3MF is increasingly preferred for full-color and multi-material printing.

The most common print formats are STL and 3MF, and nearly every slicer accepts them. You export your model to one of these, import it into slicing software, and generate the G-code your specific printer reads. If your model comes as an OBJ, FBX, or GLB, you can convert it to STL or 3MF first.

Not every model prints as-is, because a printable model must be manifold, meaning it is fully enclosed with no holes, gaps, or flipped normals. Slicers will reject or misinterpret meshes that are not watertight, and overhangs may need support structures. Many models require a cleanup or repair pass to make the geometry solid before printing.

You need slicing software, which turns a 3D model into printer instructions; popular free options include Ultimaker Cura, PrusaSlicer, and Bambu Studio. The slicer handles layer height, infill, supports, and print speed, then outputs G-code for your printer. Some ecosystems also provide their own branded slicers tuned for specific machines.

Entry-level FDM printers are now inexpensive, and free slicing software plus abundant tutorials make the basics approachable for beginners. The learning curve is mostly in preparing clean, printable models and dialing in settings like supports and adhesion. Resin printing costs a bit more and requires careful handling of chemicals, but neither technology is out of reach for hobbyists.

Yes. Meshy models can be converted into print-ready STL or 3MF files using the Meshy 3D File Converter, giving you a base mesh to bring into your slicer. It is a quick way to turn a text prompt or reference image into a printable miniature or prototype, though you should verify the mesh is watertight before sending it to the printer.